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(I didn't have the locking knobs tightened down.) I didn't see anything wrong, but retracted both awning simply to be risk-free. A lot of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I found that the rain seamless gutter had been retreated from the wall surface (and downspout was missing out on) on the ideal hand end of the front awning.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rain seamless gutter) that the awning is moved right into has actually retreated from the wall surface and twisted a bit - Chino Hills Rv Camper Ac Repair. I'm assuming the repair work will involve changing that entire size of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly using bigger scale screws to replace those that were drawn out

We have actually got damaged braces on our camper awning. Two months back, we had a poor tire blow-out that caused a bent axle, major repair services, etc, and we wonder if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy trip before we understood the axle remained in difficulty. We haven't had the awning out because it was in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, springtime mechanism, etc, is great. The rear bracket assembly is great, but the front one is split at the bottom and completely damaged through at the top, so that the top support arm no much longer attaches to the camper.

Does this audio affordable? Even the actual assistance arms are intact. They are white steel (? light weight aluminum?) and the brackets are a larger gray steel - it's the gray little bits that have actually cracked/broken. The real arms are completely normal/functionalI'm just wishing to make certain we're not being taken in out of our anxiety.

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The Motor home is a 2007, but we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the whole awning was brand name new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly like suggestions as to exactly how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - perhaps even get us via the summer - without having to put in a brand brand-new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, yet I 'd rather discover a quick and reliable service. Any person? Please!.

Welcome to my RV Renovation Collection!.?.!! I get on step 5 of changing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I removed the roof trim molding from 3 sides of the roofing system. In order to eliminate the fourth one, I require to eliminate the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to replace the rubber roofing system and roof covering decking, I need to eliminate the awning. My motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be removed to establish on the ground. I drew these out. Pressing this bar launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll likewise see exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs to find off initially before the final actions of this message (exposing the front and back edges of the roof covering outdoor decking).

Here's an information of just how the awning placing braces are screwed into the camper. I didn't actually have to do this step till the awning was on the ground but I saw this established screw here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's an additional at the ideal end of the awning.) I went ahead and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are eliminated, simply draw back on the brace. Unscrewing the big lag screws that hold the RV awning installing braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Removing the installing bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind exactly how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the spherical corner at the rear of the roofing system.

Both lag screws removed from the awning installing bracket on the. Eliminating the installing bracket of the awning.

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To change the roof, this awning bar requires to be eliminated. If you're just changing your awning and not repairing the entire roofing like me, then you wouldn't require to eliminate the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to lower the whole awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly.

You might have to cut the end with an energy knife if it is wrapped under. Simply pull it out! When the plastic screw cover insert was out I got rid of the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went pretty quickly.

As soon as the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. When I started to pry off the awning rail, the whole point all of a sudden snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Once the screws are removed, the awning rail can be pried up. As soon as you start drawing the awning rail away it will all of a sudden break cost-free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're working alone like me then lower it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs far from the camper on each side individually until you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and off the beaten track against the camper.

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I leaned the legs back versus the camper. As soon as the awning was on the ground I got rid of the little set screw at the appropriate end of the awning, (I removed the one at the left end earlier.) These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail simply slides straight off the canvas by sliding the entire rail away.

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When the two set screws were eliminated I could glide the whole awning rail right off the awning. One more appearance at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed.

The following thing holding down the motor home fiberglass house siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed below. It has a vinyl screw cover strip inserted, so once again I simply pried up the plastic insert and drew out enough so I could loosen some screw heads.

I might finish up removing it later on if I require to replace the luan plywood below this fiberglass transition. To lift that, the edge molding should be removed.

I might turn the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel. Once I might turn that item of edge molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that point I switched over from a scraper to 6 inch wide taping knife. I loosened the other edge trim in the same method, and bent it sidewards simply sufficient so that I can lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. Which suggests I'll finish getting rid of those corner trim items right down after all. We'll get to that later. I had a substantial quantity of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

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It's just standing out with the staples. Lastly the edge of the roofing decking is exposed at the rear of the camper! OK! So I've subjected the roofing system substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to locate the leading edge. Exact same deal once again. Remove some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much holding it down but adhesive now) and after that I might pull out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Now I can take out the last little rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

As soon as I scuffed up some of the broken little bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and began to draw. The entire point began to draw up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel enhanced tape on the bottom that joins the items with each other. I don't understand exactly how exactly they took care of to adhesive whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was well done. The items of roof ply are signed up with together at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly understood the roof was losing toughness and rigidity as I brought up the top layer, so fractured it off just before the very first seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Right here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong timber supports where the antennas screw right into the roofing system.

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I discovered a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

It's just standing out through the staples. The edge of the roof covering outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! So I've subjected the roof covering substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to locate the leading edge. Exact same offer once more. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Again, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much quieting however adhesive at this moment) and after that I might pull out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Chino Hills Rv Camper Ac Repair. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roof plywood!

Once I scratched up some of the damaged bits I got hold of a solid piece of plywood and started to pull. The entire point began to draw up cleanly in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel strengthened tape on the bottom that signs up with the pieces with each other. I don't know just how specifically they took care of to glue every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was perfectly done. The pieces of roof ply are collaborated at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

I swiftly realized the roof covering was losing stamina and tightness as I drew up the top layer, so broke it off prior to the first joint. A close of the steel framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw right into the roofing system.