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Diamond Bar Camping Repair Near Me

Published Jun 01, 25
12 min read

Pop Up Camper Canvas Repair Diamond Bar, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Many campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid right into has actually retreated from the wall and twisted a bit - Diamond Bar Camping Repair Near Me. I'm presuming the repair work will involve replacing that entire size of rainfall gutter (10 feet?) and most likely using larger gauge screws to replace those that were pulled out

We have actually obtained broken brackets on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a negative tire blow-out that created a bent axle, major repair work, and so on, and we ask yourself if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy trip before we recognized the axle remained in trouble. We haven't had the awning out considering that it remained in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime device, and so on, is great. The rear bracket setting up is fine, yet the front one is cracked near the bottom and entirely appeared at the top, to ensure that the top assistance arm no longer fastens to the camper. We remain in difficulty. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Does this audio practical? Also the real assistance arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? aluminum?) and the braces are a heavier grey metal - it's the grey bits that have cracked/broken. The real arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm just wanting to make certain we're not being taken in out of our anxiety.

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Are they that brand-specific and proprietary that if one piece is broken it needs to be completely changed? The RV is a 2007, yet we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the whole awning was new during that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly like advice regarding how we can "jerry rig" this for some time - perhaps even get us with the summertime - without needing to place in a brand-new awning! We're in a really serious bind since we have actually a trip intended in mid June that is not optional and can not be transformed or delayed.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, yet I 'd instead locate a quick and reliable solution. Any person? Please!.

Invite to my RV Remodelling Collection!.?.!! I get on step 5 of changing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I eliminated the roofing system trim molding from 3 sides of the roof. However in order to remove the fourth one, I require to eliminate the recreational vehicle awning as well.

In order to replace the rubber roofing system and roofing outdoor decking, I require to eliminate the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be gotten rid of to establish on the ground.

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You'll also notice just how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs ahead off initially prior to the last steps of this article (revealing the front and back edges of the roofing outdoor decking).

Here's an information of how the awning installing braces are screwed right into the camper. I really did not really need to do this action till the awning got on the ground yet I discovered this established screw here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the ideal end of the awning.) I went in advance and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, merely draw back on the brace. Unscrewing the big lag screws that hold the RV awning mounting brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Getting rid of the mounting bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind just how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the spherical edge at the back of the roofing.

Both lag screws removed from the awning mounting brace on the right. Getting rid of the installing bracket of the awning. As soon as the mounting braces are separated, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is generally much like a regular piece of aluminum roof side trim molding except that near the bottom side there is a circular track with a port in it.

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To replace the roofing system, this awning bar requires to be eliminated. If you're just replacing your awning and not fixing the whole roof covering like me, then you wouldn't require to eliminate the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to reduce the whole awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently. Currently it's similar to eliminating the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Take out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you might need to reduce completion with an utility knife if it is tucked under the rail) and afterwards just yank it out.

You might need to cut the end with an utility knife if it is wrapped under. After that just yank it out! Once the plastic screw cover insert was out I removed the screws with a cordless drill and the outlet head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went quite quickly.

When the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. As soon as I began to tear off the awning rail, the entire thing instantly broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Just understand it's coming! Once the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the side of the rubber roof covering that was fastened under it. As soon as you begin drawing the awning rail away it will instantly break totally free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me then decrease it the ground gradually by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side one by one until you can lay it on the ground. After that I turned the legs back up and off the beaten track against the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just moves right off the canvas by moving the whole rail to one side.

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As soon as both established screws were removed I can slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. Review at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step prior to I can remove the old roof outdoor decking is to reveal completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

I tore them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some rusty staples stifling. I pried them out as ideal I could. The following thing holding back the recreational vehicle fiberglass exterior siding panels is the corner trim molding shown here. It has a plastic screw cover strip put, so once again I simply pried up the vinyl insert and took out sufficient so I could unscrew some screw heads.

Nevertheless I may wind up eliminating it later if I need to replace the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass shift. The roofing system outdoor decking plywood extends under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass shift should be lifted. To raise that, the edge molding have to be eliminated.

I might turn the trim mold off the side enough to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. Once I might swing that item of edge molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in location.

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At that point I changed from a scrape to 6 inch vast taping knife. I loosened the various other corner trim in the exact same way, and curved it sidewards just enough so that I can lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which implies I'll finish eliminating those corner trim pieces all the means down. We'll get to that later. I had a substantial amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

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It's simply popping through the staples. Ultimately the side of the roof covering decking is revealed at the rear of the camper! OK! So I've subjected the roofing substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the leading edge. Very same bargain once more. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I tore that layer up as well (there had not been much quieting yet adhesive now) and after that I can pull out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Currently I can pull out the last little rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. It was simply glued. I started thoroughly peeling it up. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing system plywood! It is totally glued.

As soon as I scraped up some of the broken little bits I got hold of a strong piece of plywood and began to draw. The entire point started to pull up easily in one item without harming the foam board insulation at all. Now I can see the steel framing underneath. However after that the plywood started peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel strengthened tape on the bottom that signs up with the assemble. I don't recognize exactly how specifically they handled to adhesive whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was perfectly done. The items of roofing system ply are joined with each other at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly recognized the roof was shedding toughness and stiffness as I pulled up the leading layer, so fractured it off prior to the first joint. A close of the metal framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Right here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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I located a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a considerable amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

It's just standing out through the staples. Ultimately the edge of the roof outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually revealed the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to discover the leading edge. Exact same bargain once again. Remove some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I pried that layer up as well (there wasn't much holding it down yet glue now) and afterwards I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Diamond Bar Camping Repair Near Me. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. It was simply glued. I started carefully peeling it up. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding back the roofing system plywood! It is completely glued.

As soon as I scuffed up some of the damaged bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and began to pull. The entire point started to pull up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel enhanced tape under that joins the assemble. I don't know exactly how exactly they managed to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was nicely done. The items of roofing ply are joined with each other at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly realized the roof covering was shedding strength and rigidity as I drew up the top layer, so cracked it off right before the first seam. A close of the metal framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Right here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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