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Orange Pop Up Camper Canvas Repair

Published May 26, 25
11 min read

Rv Camper Repair Near Me Orange, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Most campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that about 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid right into has retreated from the wall and twisted a bit - Orange Pop Up Camper Canvas Repair. I'm assuming the repair service will require replacing that whole size of rainfall gutter (10 feet?) and most likely using bigger scale screws to replace those that were pulled out

We have actually obtained broken brackets on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a bad tire blow-out that created a bent axle, major repairs, etc, and we ask yourself if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy ride before we understood the axle was in trouble. We haven't had the awning out given that it remained in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime mechanism, and so on, is fine. The rear brace assembly is great, however the front one is fractured near the bottom and entirely appeared at the top, to ensure that the leading support arm no longer affixes to the camper. We are in problem. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Does this sound reasonable? Even the actual assistance arms are intact. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the brackets are a much heavier gray metal - it's the gray little bits that have actually cracked/broken. The real arms are completely normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to see to it we're not being absorbed out of our desperation.

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The RV is a 2007, yet we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the whole awning was brand name new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would such as advice as to exactly how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - possibly even get us with the summer season - without having to place in a brand name brand-new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, yet I 'd rather discover a quick and efficient option. Anybody? Please!.

Invite to my Motor Home Remodelling Collection!.?.!! I'm on step 5 of replacing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I got rid of the roofing system trim molding from three sides of the roofing. But in order to remove the fourth one, I need to get rid of the motor home awning as well.

In order to change the rubber roofing system and roofing decking, I require to remove the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be eliminated to establish on the ground.

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You'll additionally observe just how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs ahead off first prior to the last actions of this post (revealing the front and back edges of the roof covering outdoor decking).

Below's an information of how the awning placing brackets are screwed right into the camper. I didn't actually have to do this action till the awning got on the ground but I discovered this established screw below holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's one more at the right end of the awning.) I went on and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are eliminated, simply pull back on the bracket. Unscrewing the big lag screws that hold the motor home awning installing brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the installing brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the spherical edge at the back of the roof covering.

Both lag screws removed from the awning mounting bracket on the. Removing the mounting brace of the awning.

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To change the roofing, this awning bar needs to be eliminated. If you're just changing your awning and not fixing the entire roof like me, then you would not require to get rid of the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to decrease the whole awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly.

You might have to cut completion with an energy blade if it is wrapped under. Just pull it out! When the plastic screw cover insert was out I removed the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went pretty swiftly.

Once the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber beneath.) HEADS UP! When I began to pry off the awning rail, the entire thing instantly broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Simply recognize it's coming! When the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the side of the rubber roof that was fastened under it. When you begin drawing the awning rail away it will all of a sudden snap complimentary and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're working alone like me then decrease it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs far from the camper on each side individually up until you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the method versus the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail simply moves right off the canvas by moving the entire rail to one side.

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When both established screws were eliminated I can glide the entire awning rail right off the awning. One more appearance at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action before I can remove the old roofing outdoor decking is to subject the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

I tore them out as best I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded transition had some rusty staples stifling. I pried them out as ideal I could. The next point holding back the motor home fiberglass exterior siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed below. It has a vinyl screw cover strip put, so once again I just tore up the vinyl insert and took out enough so I might loosen some screw heads.

I might finish up removing it later on if I require to change the luan plywood under this fiberglass transition. The roof decking plywood extends under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass transition have to be lifted. To lift that, the edge molding have to be gotten rid of.

After that I might swing the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to raise the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I could swing that item of edge molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in place.

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I switched over from a scraper to a stiff 6 broad putty knife. This item broke out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. At that point I changed from a scraper to 6 inch large taping knife. After that I loosened the other corner trim in the exact same means, and bent it sideways just sufficient to ensure that I can raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I found a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. Which means I'll finish removing those corner trim items completely down after all. However we'll get to that later. I had a considerable quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

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The side of the roof covering decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I have actually exposed the roofing substratum at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to find the front side.

Again, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much quieting however glue at this point) and then I could tug out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. It was just glued. I began thoroughly peeling it up. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood! It is totally glued.

Once I scratched up some of the damaged bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and began to draw. The entire point started to pull up cleanly unscathed without harming the foam board insulation at all. Currently I could see the steel framework beneath. However then the plywood started peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that joins the items with each other. I do not know exactly how exactly they managed to adhesive every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, but it was well done. The items of roof covering ply are signed up with with each other at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly understood the roof was shedding toughness and stiffness as I pulled up the leading layer, so fractured it off prior to the very first joint. A close up of the steel framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Below's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof.

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I found a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. Which indicates I'll end eliminating those corner trim items all the means down nevertheless. Yet we'll obtain to that later on. I had a significant quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

It's just popping via the staples. The side of the roof outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually subjected the roof substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to find the leading edge. Exact same deal once again. Remove some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Again, I pried that layer up too (there had not been much holding it down yet glue at this point) and then I might yank out the rest of the rubber roof that was glued underneath it. Orange Pop Up Camper Canvas Repair. Now I can draw out the last bit of rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. It was just glued. So I began carefully peeling it up. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no fasteners whatsoever holding back the roofing plywood! It is entirely glued.

When I scuffed up a few of the damaged bits I acquired a solid item of plywood and started to draw. The entire point started to draw up easily unharmed without harming the foam board insulation whatsoever. Now I might see the steel framing beneath. After that the plywood began peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that joins the pieces together. I do not recognize exactly how specifically they took care of to glue every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was perfectly done. The items of roof ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly realized the roofing system was losing strength and stiffness as I pulled up the top layer, so fractured it off prior to the initial seam. A close up of the steel framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Below's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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