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Camper Service Near Me Orange County

Published May 31, 25
11 min read

Camper Repair And Service Orange County, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the locking knobs tightened down.) I really did not see anything awry, yet retracted both awning just to be secure. A lot of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out. That's when I found that the gutter had actually been retreated from the wall surface (and downspout was missing out on) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (rain seamless gutter) that the awning is slid right into has retreated from the wall surface and twisted a bit - Camper Service Near Me Orange County. I'm thinking the repair will involve changing that whole length of rain seamless gutter (10 feet?) and possibly using bigger gauge screws to replace those that were pulled out

We've obtained broken brackets on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a poor tire blow-out that triggered a curved axle, major repair services, etc, and we ask yourself if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy adventure before we recognized the axle remained in problem. We haven't had the awning out since it remained in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring mechanism, etc, is great. The back bracket setting up is great, however the front one is cracked at the bottom and completely broken through at the top, so that the top support arm no much longer attaches to the camper.

Even the real support arms are intact. They are white steel (? The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm just wanting to make certain we're not being taken in out of our anxiety (Camper Service Near Me Orange County).

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, yet we had rain damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand name brand-new at that time. If nothing else, we would certainly like advice as to just how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - maybe even obtain us via the summer season - without having to place in a brand name new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, yet I would certainly rather discover a fast and efficient service. Any individual? Please!.

Welcome to my Motor Home Renovation Collection!.?.!! I get on step 5 of replacing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I removed the roof covering trim molding from 3 sides of the roof. Yet in order to remove the fourth one, I require to get rid of the RV awning also.

In order to replace the rubber roofing and roof covering outdoor decking, I require to eliminate the awning. My Recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be removed to set on the ground.

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You'll also notice exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs to come off initially before the last actions of this article (subjecting the front and back sides of the roofing outdoor decking).

Here's an information of how the awning mounting brackets are screwed into the camper. I really did not in fact need to do this action till the awning was on the ground however I noticed this set screw below holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the appropriate end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.

Once both screws are eliminated, just pull back on the brace. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the motor home awning placing brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Getting rid of the mounting bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Keep in mind how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the rounded corner at the back of the roofing system.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning installing brace on the. Eliminating the installing bracket of the awning.

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To change the roofing, this awning bar needs to be eliminated. If you're simply replacing your awning and not fixing the whole roof covering like me, after that you would not need to remove the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to decrease the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily. Now it's similar to getting rid of the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Pull out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you might need to cut the end with an utility knife if it is put under the rail) and after that simply yank it out.

You might have to cut the end with an utility blade if it is wrapped under. Simply tug it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber below.) HEADS UP! Once I started to pry off the awning rail, the whole thing suddenly broke off and rolled up into the awning like a window blind.

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As soon as the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be pried up. Once you start pulling the awning rail away it will suddenly snap cost-free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me then decrease it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs away from the camper on each side individually until you can lay it on the ground. Then I turned the legs back up and out of the means against the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just moves right off the canvas by moving the entire rail to one side.

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As soon as the 2 set screws were eliminated I could slide the entire awning rail straight off the awning. Another look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step prior to I can remove the old roof outdoor decking is to reveal the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

I pried them out as finest I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some rusty staples holding it down. I tore them out as best I could. The next thing holding back the motor home fiberglass siding panels is the corner trim molding shown below. It has a plastic screw cover strip inserted, so once again I simply pried up the vinyl insert and took out enough so I could loosen some screw heads.

I might finish up eliminating it later on if I need to replace the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass transition. The roof covering decking plywood expands under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass shift have to be raised. To lift that, the corner molding must be gotten rid of.

Then I can swing the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to raise the side of the fiberglass panel. Once I could turn that piece of edge molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in location.

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I switched from a scraper to a rigid 6 wide putty knife. This item damaged out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. At that factor I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch broad taping knife. I loosened up the other edge trim in the same method, and bent it laterally simply enough so that I might raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I found a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. Which indicates I'll end getting rid of those edge trim items all the way down. However we'll reach that later. I had a significant quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roof covering deck.

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It's simply popping with the staples. The side of the roofing decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually subjected the roof substrate at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the front edge. Same offer once more. Remove some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I pried that layer up also (there had not been much stifling however adhesive at this moment) and after that I might tug out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roof covering plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation under the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roof plywood!

When I scuffed up a few of the damaged bits I acquired a solid piece of plywood and began to draw. The entire thing started to pull up cleanly intact without harming the foam board insulation at all. Now I could see the steel framing underneath. However after that the plywood began peeling up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the bottom that joins the items with each other. I do not recognize how specifically they managed to adhesive whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was nicely done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly realized the roof was losing strength and rigidity as I brought up the leading layer, so split it off simply prior to the initial seam. A close of the metal framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I discovered a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which indicates I'll end eliminating those corner trim items all the way down. But we'll get to that later. I had a considerable quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

The edge of the roof covering outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I've revealed the roof covering substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to find the front side.

Again, I pried that layer up too (there had not been much stifling but adhesive now) and after that I can pull out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Camper Service Near Me Orange County. Now I can draw out the last little rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. It was simply glued. So I started carefully peeling it up. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation under the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding back the roofing plywood! It is entirely glued.

As soon as I scuffed up some of the broken bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and began to draw. The entire point began to draw up easily in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel strengthened tape on the bottom that joins the pieces with each other. I do not know exactly how exactly they managed to glue whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was well done. The pieces of roofing system ply are joined with each other at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly recognized the roofing system was shedding toughness and tightness as I brought up the top layer, so cracked it off right before the first joint. A close of the steel framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood supports where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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