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A lot of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.
It shows up that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is glided into has pulled away from the wall surface and twisted a little bit - Placentia Camper Service. I'm thinking the repair service will entail changing that entire length of gutter (10 feet?) and most likely making use of bigger scale screws to change those that were taken out
We've got busted brackets on our camper awning. Two months earlier, we had a poor tire blow-out that caused a bent axle, significant repairs, etc, and we ask yourself if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy trip before we recognized the axle remained in difficulty. We have not had the awning out given that it was in the store to be repaired.
The awning itself, springtime device, and so on, is great. The back brace assembly is great, however the front one is broken near the bottom and entirely appeared on top, so that the top support arm no more fastens to the camper. We remain in trouble. I do not want/like to camp without it.
Does this sound practical? Even the real support arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? aluminum?) and the brackets are a larger gray metal - it's the gray bits that have cracked/broken. The real arms are totally normal/functionalI'm just intending to see to it we're not being taken in out of our despair.
The Motor home is a 2007, but we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand new at that time. If nothing else, we would like guidance as to how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - perhaps also get us with the summertime - without having to put in a brand name new awning!
If we have to go awning-less, we will, however I would certainly rather locate a fast and reliable option. Anybody? Please!.
Welcome to my Motor Home Improvement Series!.?.!! I get on action 5 of changing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I got rid of the roofing trim molding from 3 sides of the roof covering. But in order to get rid of the 4th one, I require to eliminate the RV awning too.
In order to replace the rubber roof and roofing system decking, I need to remove the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be removed to establish on the ground. First I pulled these out. Pushing this bar launches the foot of the awning legs.
You'll also observe how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs to find off initially before the final steps of this post (subjecting the front and back edges of the roof decking).
Here's an information of exactly how the awning installing brackets are screwed into the camper. I didn't in fact have to do this step until the awning was on the ground but I noticed this established screw below holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the right end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.
Once both screws are eliminated, simply draw back on the brace. Loosening the large lag screws that hold the motor home awning placing braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the installing brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the spherical edge at the back of the roofing.
Both lag screws eliminated from the awning installing brace on the. Eliminating the placing brace of the awning.
To replace the roof, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. Right here's a consider the round channel at the bottom of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Heads up! If you're just changing your awning and not repairing the whole roof like me, after that you wouldn't need to eliminate the awning rail.
Dropping the legs a couple of notches to lower the whole awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly.
You might have to reduce the end with an energy blade if it is wrapped under. Just yank it out!
As soon as the screws were out I started prying up the awning rail. As soon as I started to tear off the awning rail, the whole point all of a sudden snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.
Just understand it's coming! As soon as the screws are removed, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the side of the rubber roof covering that was fastened under it. Once you begin drawing the awning rail away it will all of a sudden snap complimentary and roll up like a window blind with the awning.
This point is hefty so if you're working alone like me after that lower it the ground bit by bit by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time up until you can lay it on the ground. I flipped the legs back up and out of the way versus the camper.
These screws maintain the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail simply slides right off the canvas by gliding the entire rail to one side.
When the 2 established screws were removed I can slide the whole awning rail right off the awning. One more look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed.
I pried them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some corroded staples quieting. I tore them out as finest I could. The following point holding back the motor home fiberglass house siding panels is the corner trim molding shown here. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once again I just pried up the plastic insert and took out sufficient so I can unscrew some screw heads.
I might finish up removing it later on if I need to replace the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass shift. To lift that, the edge molding need to be eliminated.
I might turn the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I could swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.
At that factor I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch vast taping knife. I loosened the various other corner trim in the exact same method, and bent it laterally simply sufficient so that I might lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.
I discovered a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which implies I'll finish getting rid of those corner trim items right down after all. However we'll obtain to that later. I had a substantial amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof deck.
It's simply popping through the staples. The side of the roof decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! So I've subjected the roofing system substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the leading edge. Same offer once again. Eliminate some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.
Again, I pried that layer up as well (there wasn't much holding it down however adhesive at this moment) and after that I can yank out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Currently I can pull out the last little rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.
I saw there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof covering plywood!
When I scraped up some of the damaged little bits I acquired a solid piece of plywood and started to draw. The entire thing started to bring up cleanly intact without damaging the foam board insulation at all. Currently I might see the steel framework under. But after that the plywood began peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.
There is a metal strengthened tape under that signs up with the assemble. I don't know exactly how precisely they took care of to glue every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was perfectly done. The items of roofing ply are joined with each other at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.
I swiftly recognized the roof was losing toughness and stiffness as I pulled up the top layer, so split it off simply prior to the very first joint. A close up of the steel framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Right here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.
I found a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which indicates I'll end removing those edge trim items completely down besides. But we'll reach that later. I had a considerable quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.
It's just popping via the staples. The side of the roof outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually revealed the roof covering substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front edge. Exact same bargain again. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.
Once more, I tore that layer up as well (there had not been much stifling however adhesive at this point) and after that I might tug out the rest of the rubber roof that was glued beneath it. Placentia Camper Service. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood
I observed there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood!
Once I scuffed up some of the broken little bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to pull. The whole point began to bring up easily unscathed without damaging the foam board insulation in all. Currently I can see the steel framework under. However after that the plywood began peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.
There is a metal reinforced tape on the bottom that signs up with the assemble. I do not recognize just how specifically they handled to adhesive whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was nicely done. The pieces of roofing system ply are signed up with with each other at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.
I rapidly recognized the roofing system was shedding stamina and rigidity as I brought up the top layer, so broke it off just prior to the very first seam. A close of the steel framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Right here's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roofing system.
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