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Camper Roof Repair Near Me Pomona

Published May 28, 25
11 min read

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OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the locking knobs tightened up down.) I really did not see anything awry, yet pulled back both awning just to be safe. Many campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I found that the rainfall gutter had actually been retreated from the wall surface (and downspout was missing out on) on the best hand end of the front awning.

It appears that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is moved into has retreated from the wall and turned a little bit - Camper Roof Repair Near Me Pomona. I'm assuming the fixing will involve changing that whole size of gutter (10 feet?) and probably utilizing larger scale screws to replace those that were drawn out

We've got busted braces on our camper awning. 2 months back, we had a poor tire blow-out that triggered a curved axle, major fixings, and so on, and we ask yourself if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy adventure prior to we recognized the axle was in difficulty. We haven't had the awning out since it was in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring system, etc, is fine. The rear bracket assembly is great, but the front one is split near the bottom and entirely appeared at the top, to make sure that the top support arm no much longer affixes to the camper. We are in trouble. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Does this sound sensible? Even the real assistance arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a larger grey metal - it's the gray bits that have actually cracked/broken. The real arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to ensure we're not being absorbed out of our despair.

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one piece is broken it needs to be totally changed? The motor home is a 2007, but we had rain damages in 2010 and the whole awning was brand-new at that time. If nothing else, we would certainly like recommendations regarding how we can "jerry rig" this for some time - perhaps even get us with the summertime - without needing to put in a brand-new awning! We're in a really serious bind since we have a trip intended in mid June that is not optional and can not be transformed or held off.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, yet I prefer to find a fast and reliable service. Anyone? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of changing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to eliminate the 4th one, I require to remove the Motor home awning.

In order to change the rubber roofing and roof decking, I require to get rid of the awning. My Motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be removed to set on the ground.

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You'll likewise discover exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to find off first prior to the last actions of this blog post (revealing the front and back sides of the roofing system decking).

Right here's a detail of how the awning mounting brackets are screwed into the camper. I really did not really have to do this step until the awning got on the ground yet I observed this set screw here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's one more at the right end of the awning.) I proceeded and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are removed, merely draw back on the bracket. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the RV awning mounting braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Getting rid of the installing bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the rounded edge at the rear of the roof covering.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning mounting bracket on the. Eliminating the installing brace of the awning.

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To change the roof, this awning bar requires to be removed. If you're just replacing your awning and not fixing the entire roof like me, after that you would not require to eliminate the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to reduce the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You might have to cut completion with an energy knife if it is wrapped under. Then simply yank it out! Once the vinyl screw cover insert was out I eliminated the screws with a cordless drill and the outlet head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went rather quickly.

When the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber beneath.) DIRECTS! As soon as I started to tear off the awning rail, the entire thing instantly broke off and rolled up into the awning like a window blind.

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As soon as the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be torn up. As soon as you begin pulling the awning rail away it will suddenly snap cost-free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me then decrease it the ground gradually by strolling the legs far from the camper on each side one by one up until you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the method versus the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail just glides right off the canvas by sliding the entire rail to one side.

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Once the 2 established screws were eliminated I could slide the whole awning rail right off the awning. Another look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated.

I tore them out as finest I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some rustic staples stifling. I tore them out as best I could. The following thing holding back the motor home fiberglass home siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so once again I just pried up the vinyl insert and took out sufficient so I could unscrew some screw heads.

Nevertheless I may wind up removing it later if I require to replace the luan plywood under this fiberglass transition. The roof outdoor decking plywood prolongs under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to replace it, this fiberglass transition have to be raised. To lift that, the corner molding must be eliminated.

Then I might swing the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. When I might turn that item of corner molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I switched from a scraper to a rigid 6 large putty blade. This item broke out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to pry it up. Then I changed from a scraper to 6 inch vast taping knife. I loosened the other edge trim in the same means, and curved it sidewards just sufficient so that I might lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. I had a considerable quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

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It's just popping via the staples. Finally the edge of the roof covering outdoor decking is exposed at the rear of the camper! OK! I have actually revealed the roof substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front edge. Same deal once again. Eliminate some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I pried that layer up as well (there wasn't much stifling yet adhesive at this factor) and after that I can pull out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Currently I can pull out the last bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roof covering plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood!

When I scraped up some of the busted little bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to pull. The entire thing began to pull up cleanly in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal strengthened tape on the bottom that signs up with the assemble. I don't understand how exactly they took care of to adhesive everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was nicely done. The items of roofing ply are collaborated at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly recognized the roof covering was shedding stamina and tightness as I drew up the leading layer, so split it off prior to the very first joint. A close up of the steel framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Right here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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I located a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. Which indicates I'll finish getting rid of those corner trim items all the means down besides. However we'll get to that later. I had a considerable quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

It's just popping with the staples. Ultimately the side of the roof covering outdoor decking is subjected at the rear of the camper! OK! So I have actually revealed the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front edge. Same offer once more. Remove some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling yet glue at this factor) and after that I could yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Camper Roof Repair Near Me Pomona. Now I can pull out the last little rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

When I scuffed up some of the busted bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and began to draw. The entire point began to pull up cleanly in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel enhanced tape on the bottom that signs up with the items with each other. I don't know just how precisely they handled to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was nicely done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly realized the roofing was losing strength and tightness as I pulled up the top layer, so broke it off right before the first seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood supports where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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