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Silverado Camper Trailer Service Near Me

Published Jun 08, 25
10 min read

Pop Up Camper Roof Replacement Silverado, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the locking knobs tightened down.) I really did not see anything awry, however withdrawed both awning simply to be safe. Most campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out. That's when I discovered that the rainfall gutter had actually been retreated from the wall (and downspout was missing) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is moved right into has actually pulled away from the wall surface and twisted a bit - Silverado Camper Trailer Service Near Me. I'm presuming the repair service will entail replacing that entire length of gutter (10 feet?) and probably making use of larger gauge screws to change those that were pulled out

We have actually got broken brackets on our camper awning. Two months back, we had a poor tire blow-out that created a curved axle, significant repairs, etc, and we question if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy trip before we understood the axle was in difficulty. We have not had the awning out considering that it was in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring device, and so on, is great. The back brace assembly is fine, but the front one is split at the base and completely damaged through at the top, so that the leading support arm no longer fastens to the camper.

Also the real support arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? The real arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to make certain we're not being taken in out of our desperation (Silverado Camper Trailer Service Near Me).

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Are they that brand-specific and proprietary that if one piece is broken it needs to be completely changed? The recreational vehicle is a 2007, yet we had rain damage in 2010 and the entire awning was new at that time. If nothing else, we would like suggestions as to just how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - perhaps even obtain us with the summer - without having to put in a brand brand-new awning! We remain in a very serious bind since we have a trip prepared in mid June that is not optional and can not be altered or delayed.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, yet I prefer to locate a fast and reliable remedy. Any individual? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of changing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to get rid of the 4th one, I need to get rid of the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to change the rubber roof and roof outdoor decking, I need to remove the awning. My Recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be gotten rid of to establish on the ground.

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You'll likewise discover exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires ahead off initially prior to the final actions of this message (subjecting the front and back sides of the roof covering decking).

Here's a detail of how the awning placing braces are screwed right into the camper. I really did not actually need to do this step until the awning was on the ground but I discovered this set screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's one more at the right end of the awning.) I went on and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are eliminated, merely draw back on the brace. Loosening the huge lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning installing brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the installing brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the rounded edge at the back of the roof covering.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning mounting bracket on the right. Eliminating the installing brace of the awning. As soon as the placing braces are removed, it's time to eliminate the awning rail. Keep in mind, the awning rail is primarily much like a regular item of aluminum roofing system side trim molding other than that at the lower edge there is a round track with a port in it.

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To replace the roof covering, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. If you're just changing your awning and not repairing the whole roofing system like me, after that you wouldn't need to get rid of the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to lower the whole awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You might have to cut the end with an energy knife if it is wrapped under. Just tug it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. When I began to tear off the awning rail, the entire thing suddenly snapped off and rolled up into the awning like a window blind.

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Once the screws are removed, the awning rail can be pried up. As soon as you begin drawing the awning rail away it will unexpectedly break complimentary and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're working alone like me then reduce it the ground little bit by little by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side one by one until you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the means against the camper.

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I leaned the legs back against the camper. When the awning got on the ground I removed the little collection screw at the appropriate end of the awning, (I got rid of the one at the left end earlier.) These screws keep the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail simply moves straight off the canvas by moving the entire rail to one side.

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As soon as the 2 established screws were removed I might glide the entire awning rail right off the awning. An additional look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

I tore them out as finest I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some corroded staples holding it down. I pried them out as finest I could. The following thing holding back the rv fiberglass home siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed right here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip put, so once more I simply pried up the vinyl insert and drew out sufficient so I could unscrew some screw heads.

Nonetheless I may finish up removing it later on if I need to change the luan plywood below this fiberglass shift. The roofing decking plywood expands under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to replace it, this fiberglass transition should be lifted. To raise that, the edge molding have to be removed.

I might turn the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. Once I can swing that piece of edge molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in place.

Pop Up Camper Roof Repair Silverado, CA

At that factor I changed from a scrape to 6 inch large taping blade. I loosened up the various other edge trim in the exact same method, and curved it sidewards simply enough so that I could raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

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The side of the roofing decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I've revealed the roofing system substratum at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to find the front edge.

Again, I pried that layer up too (there wasn't much stifling but glue now) and afterwards I can tug out the rest of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

Once I scratched up some of the broken bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to draw. The entire point started to pull up easily in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal strengthened tape under that joins the assemble. I do not recognize how specifically they handled to adhesive everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was perfectly done. The pieces of roof ply are signed up with together at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly recognized the roof was losing toughness and tightness as I drew up the leading layer, so fractured it off simply before the initial seam. A close of the metal framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roofing system.

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I found a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. I had a considerable quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

The side of the roof covering decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roof substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front edge.

Once again, I tore that layer up too (there had not been much quieting yet adhesive at this moment) and afterwards I could yank out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Silverado Camper Trailer Service Near Me. Currently I can draw out the last bit of rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

Camper Trailer Service Near Me Silverado, CA

Camper Repair Shop Silverado, CACamper Trailer Repair Near Me Silverado, CA


I observed there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. It was just glued. I began thoroughly peeling it up. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no fasteners in all holding back the roof covering plywood! It is entirely glued.

Once I scratched up some of the broken little bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and began to pull. The whole thing began to pull up cleanly in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel reinforced tape under that joins the assemble. I do not recognize just how exactly they managed to glue whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was perfectly done. The items of roofing ply are collaborated at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly understood the roofing system was shedding strength and stiffness as I brought up the top layer, so fractured it off prior to the very first seam. A close up of the steel framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Below's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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