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Camper Service Center Anaheim

Published Jun 10, 25
10 min read

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OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Most campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (rain gutter) that the awning is moved into has retreated from the wall surface and turned a bit - Camper Service Center Anaheim. I'm assuming the fixing will require changing that whole length of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly making use of bigger gauge screws to change those that were pulled out

We have actually got damaged braces on our camper awning. Two months ago, we had a poor tire blow-out that caused a curved axle, significant repairs, etc, and we ask yourself if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy experience before we recognized the axle remained in difficulty. We have not had the awning out because it remained in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime mechanism, and so on, is fine. The rear bracket assembly is great, but the front one is cracked at the bottom and entirely appeared at the top, to make sure that the leading support arm no more affixes to the camper. We are in problem. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Does this audio reasonable? Also the real assistance arms are intact. They are white metal (? aluminum?) and the brackets are a heavier grey steel - it's the gray little bits that have cracked/broken. The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm just wanting to make certain we're not being absorbed out of our anxiety.

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one item is broken it needs to be totally replaced? The RV is a 2007, however we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand name new at that time. If nothing else, we would certainly like suggestions as to just how we can "jerry gear" this for some time - perhaps even get us via the summer - without having to place in an all new awning! We remain in a very major bind since we have a trip prepared in mid June that is not optional and can not be changed or delayed.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, but I 'd instead find a quick and efficient option. Any individual? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to eliminate the fourth one, I need to get rid of the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to change the rubber roof covering and roof outdoor decking, I need to get rid of the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be gotten rid of to establish on the ground. I pulled these out. Pushing this lever releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally see just how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to come off initially before the final actions of this blog post (subjecting the front and back edges of the roof decking).

Below's an information of exactly how the awning placing brackets are screwed right into the camper. I really did not in fact have to do this action till the awning got on the ground yet I observed this established screw right here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's one more at the ideal end of the awning.) I went in advance and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, simply draw back on the brace. Loosening the large lag screws that hold the RV awning installing brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Removing the placing bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the rounded corner at the back of the roof covering.

Both lag screws removed from the awning mounting bracket on the. Removing the placing brace of the awning.

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To change the roof, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. If you're just changing your awning and not repairing the entire roofing like me, after that you wouldn't require to get rid of the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to lower the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You might have to cut the end with an utility knife if it is covered under. Simply yank it out!

Once the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. Once I started to pry off the awning rail, the whole point all of a sudden snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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As soon as the screws are removed, the awning rail can be torn up. When you start drawing the awning rail away it will unexpectedly break complimentary and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're working alone like me then lower it the ground gradually by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side one by one till you can lay it on the ground. I flipped the legs back up and out of the way against the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just moves right off the canvas by gliding the entire rail to one side.

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When the two set screws were removed I can move the entire awning rail right off the awning. An additional look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

I pried them out as best I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some corroded staples holding it down. I tore them out as ideal I could. The following point holding back the recreational vehicle fiberglass house siding panels is the edge trim molding shown right here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so again I just pried up the plastic insert and took out enough so I could loosen some screw heads.

I might end up eliminating it later if I require to change the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass shift. To raise that, the edge molding must be eliminated.

Then I might turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. When I can swing that piece of edge molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that factor I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch large taping blade. I loosened the various other corner trim in the same means, and bent it sideways simply sufficient so that I can raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. I had a significant amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

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It's just standing out through the staples. Finally the edge of the roof decking is revealed at the rear of the camper! OK! I have actually exposed the roofing substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to find the leading edge. Very same offer once again. Get rid of some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much quieting yet adhesive at this factor) and then I could tug out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Currently I can pull out the last little rubber roof covering from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof plywood!

When I scraped up some of the damaged little bits I obtained hold of a strong item of plywood and started to pull. The whole point began to draw up easily in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel enhanced tape on the base that signs up with the assemble. I don't recognize how precisely they took care of to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was perfectly done. The items of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly understood the roofing system was losing toughness and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so broke it off prior to the very first joint. A close up of the metal framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Below's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber supports where the antennas screw into the roof.

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I discovered a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. I had a significant amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roof deck.

The side of the roofing outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roofing substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front edge.

Once again, I pried that layer up as well (there wasn't much quieting yet glue now) and after that I might tug out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Camper Service Center Anaheim. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. It was just glued. I started meticulously peeling it up. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roof covering plywood! It is totally glued.

When I scratched up a few of the damaged bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and started to pull. The entire thing started to pull up easily intact without harming the foam board insulation in all. Now I could see the steel framework below. But after that the plywood began peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that joins the items together. I do not understand how specifically they took care of to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, but it was well done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly realized the roofing system was shedding toughness and tightness as I drew up the leading layer, so split it off prior to the first seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof.

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