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Pop Up Camper Roof Repair Garden Grove

Published Jun 04, 25
10 min read

Camper Roof Repair Garden Grove, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

The majority of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid into has actually pulled away from the wall surface and turned a little bit - Pop Up Camper Roof Repair Garden Grove. I'm thinking the repair work will involve changing that entire size of rainfall gutter (10 feet?) and most likely utilizing larger scale screws to change those that were taken out

We have actually obtained broken braces on our camper awning. Two months earlier, we had a bad tire blow-out that caused a curved axle, major fixings, etc, and we wonder if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy trip prior to we recognized the axle remained in problem. We haven't had the awning out considering that it was in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, springtime device, and so on, is fine. The back bracket assembly is great, yet the front one is cracked near the bottom and completely broken through on top, to ensure that the leading support arm no more affixes to the camper. We remain in difficulty. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Does this sound reasonable? Also the actual support arms are intact. They are white metal (? aluminum?) and the brackets are a larger gray steel - it's the grey little bits that have actually cracked/broken. The real arms are totally normal/functionalI'm just wanting to make sure we're not being taken in out of our anxiety.

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The RV is a 2007, yet we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand name new at that time. If nothing else, we would such as guidance as to exactly how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - possibly also obtain us with the summer - without having to put in a brand new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, however I prefer to find a fast and efficient remedy. Anybody? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of replacing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to get rid of the 4th one, I require to get rid of the Motor home awning.

In order to replace the rubber roof and roofing system outdoor decking, I need to remove the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be gotten rid of to establish on the ground.

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You'll also see exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires ahead off first prior to the final steps of this message (revealing the front and back sides of the roofing outdoor decking).

Below's an information of how the awning placing brackets are screwed right into the camper. I really did not in fact need to do this step till the awning was on the ground however I saw this established screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's an additional at the best end of the awning.) I proceeded and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are eliminated, simply draw back on the brace. Loosening the large lag screws that hold the motor home awning mounting brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the mounting brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the spherical corner at the rear of the roofing.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning installing brace on the. Removing the installing bracket of the awning.

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To change the roofing system, this awning bar needs to be eliminated. If you're simply changing your awning and not fixing the whole roofing like me, then you would not require to remove the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to decrease the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You may have to cut the end with an energy knife if it is covered under. Just tug it out!

When the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber beneath.) DIRECTS! Once I started to pry off the awning rail, the entire point all of a sudden snapped off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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When the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be pried up. As soon as you start drawing the awning rail away it will all of a sudden break totally free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're working alone like me then reduce it the ground bit by little by walking the legs far from the camper on each side one by one up until you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and out of the way versus the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail simply moves right off the canvas by gliding the whole rail to one side.

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When the two set screws were eliminated I might move the whole awning rail right off the awning. Another look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated.

I tore them out as finest I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some rusty staples stifling. I tore them out as best I could. The following point holding down the motor home fiberglass exterior siding panels is the edge trim molding shown here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so again I simply pried up the plastic insert and drew out enough so I can unscrew some screw heads.

I may end up removing it later if I need to change the luan plywood below this fiberglass shift. To raise that, the edge molding need to be removed.

After that I can turn the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to raise the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I can swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in place.

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At that factor I switched from a scrape to 6 inch large taping knife. I loosened up the other corner trim in the same method, and bent it sidewards simply sufficient so that I might raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I located a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. Which implies I'll end getting rid of those edge trim pieces all the way down. We'll get to that later. I had a substantial amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

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The side of the roof covering outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I've revealed the roof covering substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front side.

Once again, I pried that layer up too (there had not been much stifling but adhesive at this moment) and afterwards I might tug out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Currently I can take out the last bit of rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I discovered there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

Once I scraped up some of the broken little bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and began to pull. The entire point started to draw up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal enhanced tape on the base that signs up with the assemble. I don't understand just how specifically they took care of to glue whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was perfectly done. The pieces of roof covering ply are joined with each other at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly understood the roof covering was shedding stamina and stiffness as I brought up the top layer, so broke it off prior to the first joint. A close up of the steel framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Below's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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I located a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roof deck.

It's simply standing out through the staples. Lastly the edge of the roof covering decking is revealed at the rear of the camper! OK! I've exposed the roofing system substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to find the front edge. Very same offer once again. Remove some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up as well (there wasn't much holding it down yet glue at this factor) and after that I can pull out the rest of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Pop Up Camper Roof Repair Garden Grove. Currently I can pull out the last little rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roof covering plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

As soon as I scraped up some of the broken little bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to pull. The whole thing began to draw up cleanly in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the bottom that signs up with the assemble. I don't know exactly how specifically they took care of to adhesive every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was nicely done. The items of roofing ply are joined together at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly understood the roof was shedding toughness and rigidity as I brought up the leading layer, so cracked it off prior to the initial joint. A close up of the metal framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Below's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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